The Firn Line

This month’s trip report takes place in one of Alaska’s most remote and mythical mountain ranges: The Revelations.  First explored in the late 60’s by David Roberts and friends, The Revelations hold a mystique, and reputation, that has continued to grow over the years.  The range, which is nestled between the southwest tip of The Alaska Range, and the north and western aspects of the Aleutian, Neacola and the Tordrillo Mountains, is as remote, as it is fierce.  The jagged peaks, which average between 7 and 9 thousand feet in height, are an alpine climbers dream, with sweeping granite buttresses, firm gullies of neve snow, and ribbons and shafts of bulletproof ice.  But for every day of good conditions and weather, there’s at least 3 days of worse weather.  And by bad I mean never ending rain and snow storms,  fog and soupy cloud cover, and relentless,  vicious, hurricane-force winds.  If that’s not enough, just getting in and out of the range requires multiple bush plane flights, sometimes costing thousands o

They say that Alaska is a place of extremes.  This ranges from the stark changing of the seasons, to the scale of the wilderness landscapes, and of course, the size of the monolithic mountains.  But it also applies to the races - and I’m not talking about Nascar.  There’s the Iditarod - a grueling 950 mile dog sled race from Anchorage to Nome, that travels through bitter cold temperatures and sub-arctic, coastal storms.  There’s Mount Marathon - a blistering roundtrip run up and down a nearly 3,000 foot high peak, covered in loose rock and scree, and lined with dangerous cliffs.  And then there’s the Alaska Wilderness Classic. Started in the early 1980’s, The Alaska Wilderness Classic is less of a formal race, and more of a grass-roots, community driven adventure challenge.  The Classic historically traverses a mountain range, anywhere from 150-250 miles in distance, and the rules are simple: get from point A to Point B unassisted, usually by foot, ski or pack raft.  Participants are expected to leave minimal

It was the summer of 1996.  At the time, I was 21 years old, living in a primitive cabin in the small fishing village of Ninilchik, Alaska.  That summer, I’d landed a job working as a park ranger assistant for Alaska State Parks, and although I’d like to say I was doing something cool like building trails, the reality is that I was cleaning gnarly outhouses, packing up bags of garbage, and picking up fish guts off the beaches.  Although I was far away from any climbing, I was often mesmerized by the Aleutian and Neacola Ranges, 50 miles across the water.So I was excited when I received a stash of beloved issues of Climbing Magazine in the mail.  As I poured through each issue, I was stopped in my tracks when I stumbled onto a story about 2 climbers who’d just attempted the North Face of Mount Neacola, the highest mountain in the Neacola Range.  The climbers, Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey, had spent 5 days attempting a route they dubbed the Medusa Face. The photos were inspiring, and terrifying to say the l

Adam Gellman, a young glacier guide, tells the story of his adventures on an obscure (but challenging) Alaskan peak called Mt. Wickersham.This Trip Report is made possible with the gracious support of The Firn Line Patreon backers. To learn more about how you can become a Patreon subscriber, go to The Firn Line Patreon.•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••NotesWritten &  Narrated by Adam GellmanProduced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan PhillipsSupport The Firn LinePatreonPayPalMerchSponsorsAlaska Rock GymThe Hoarding Marmot

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know rock climber, big-wall soloist and AMGA certified rock climbing guide, Miranda Oakley. Growing up in Maryland, Miranda learned from a young age the values of compassion, teaching, and working with others. Born to a Palestinian mother, and an American father, Miranda grew in a family that cared deeply about social justice issues, whether it was participating in peaceful anti-war rallies, or attending meetings of the Palestine Aid Society with her mother.Later, in her teens, Miranda started rock climbing at the local gym - and it was during that time, she discovered the calling that would begin to shape her life. In college, she started a climbing club and began making her first road trips with friends. But it wasn’t until she headed west in 2006, to the big walls of Yosemite Valley, that her life’s vision truly came into focus.Since that time, Miranda has become a force in the climbing world. With the support of her longtime sponsor, Mountain Hardware, She

Hey Firn Line fans, this is Evan, and I wanted to tell you about a new monthly series I’m launching called The Trip Report.  Storytelling is an integral part of human nature - and climbing and adventure stories are no exception.  There’s nothing better than sitting around a campfire on a crisp, desert night - listening to a friend share a story of adventure, perhaps a brush with danger, or a time when everything came together perfectly.  Stories are a way to carry on traditions to the next generation - a way to learn, a way to laugh, and sometimes, a way to cry.So this is an open invite to the Firn Line community, to dig into your well of experiences, and maybe consider sharing.  If you have a trip report you’d like to share, feel free to send me an email at thefirnline@gmail.com - and let’s get a conversation going.  I look forward to hearing from each and every one of you.Links:WebsitePatreonEvan Phillips Music

When people think of ice climbing in North America, the first places that might come to mind are Ouray, Colorado, Hyalite Canyon outside Bozeman, Montana - or the vast alpine region of the Canadian Rockies, just to name a few.  But perhaps the ultimate mecca for pure frozen waterfall climbing, is in and around Valdez, Alaska.  This temperate region, which encompasses the shared traditional land of the Ahtna, Athabaskan, Alutiq and Eyak cultures, averages around 300 inches of snow each year, making it a perfect environment for forming fat, blue ice routesThere’s a rich climbing history in Valdez, starting when Jeff Lowe and Bob Weiland made the first ascent of the ultra-classic Keystone Greensteps in 1975.  Then, in the late 70’s, a couple of young hotspot climbers from Fairbanks, Carl Tobin and Roman Dial, started ticking of dozens of first ascents, raising the standard of what was being done at the time.  In the 80’s, climber’s like Andy Embick, Chuck Comstock and Brian Teale, all Valdez locals, continued th

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary mountaineer, outdoor adventurer, author and conservationist, Rick Ridgeway.  I first learned about Rick back in the early 90’s, when I read his mountaineering classic, The Last Step, which details the 1978 first American ascent of K2.  Rick was an early hero of mine, as I admired his tenacity, grit and determination in the mountains.  But it turns out, the world’s high peaks we’re just one chapter in Rick’s life: a life that’s been filled with adventure, catastrophe, enduring love, and heart-wrenching loss.  A few months ago, I caught wind of Rick’s new memoir,  Life Lived Wild, which came out via Patagonia Books on October 26th.  The book describes the many adventures in Rick’s life -  everything from a gripping stay in a vicious Panamanian jail at 24 years old, to one of his closest companions dying in his arms on a remote Chinese mountain, to traverses in remote regions of Tibet and Borneo, to the windswept and frigid summits of Antarctica. 

The mountain ranges of North America are beautiful and diverse.  From the prominent glacier cones that dominate the skylines of the Pacific Northwest, to the rugged granite plutons of Yosemite Valley, to the sawtooth razor points of the Tetons, the mountains of North America are a veritable playground for mountaineers.But for climbers and alpinists looking to put their physical, mental and psychological fortitude to the test- perhaps no range is better suited, than the Canadian Rockies.Although the Rockies offer opportunities for mountaineers of all abilities, it’s the giant peaks, with their menacing and fearsome north walls, that have cemented the Canadian Rockies as one of the world’s most storied alpine arenas. And today, I’m chatting with one of the rockies most accomplished, and enduring alpinists of his generation, Jon Walsh.Jon’s alpine resume is uniquely impressive - with dozens and dozens of first ascents ranging from Patagonia, The Karakoram and The Bugaboos.  But it’s his climbs in the Canadian Ro

It’s easier to stay alive if you know what’s out there.  Whether it’s understanding local climate patterns, snow conditions, or predators that inhabit certain areas.  Having even a basic understanding of what lies ahead, can be the difference between having a great day out, and not coming home at all.And that’s the philosophy behind Emma Walker’s Dead Reckoning, which comes out June 1st on Falcon Guides.  Dead Reckoning is an honest, gritty, and sometimes gripping collections of close-calls and accidents in the outdoors.  Emma’s compelling narrative nonfiction covers stories and topics ranging from hiking and mountaineering, to sea kayaking and backcountry skiing, in a style that is accessible to readers of all experience levels.  At the end of each chapter, she distills lessons learned for staying safe in the outdoors––all with a relatable, sometimes self-deprecating (and occasionally vulnerable) twist.I recently caught up with Emma to talk about the book, why she wrote it and who it’s for, as well as diggin

On today’s episode of The Firn LIne, we’ll get to know climber, alpinist and author, Kelly Cordes.  I first heard of Kelly back in the mid-90’s when I started seeing his name speckled across the pages of publications like Climbing and Rock and Ice.  Over the years, I watched from afar as he made gutsy first ascents in the Alaska Range and beyond - always pushing himself to a higher standard, that only he knew the limit of.  Later, I admired his work as senior editor of the American Alpine Journal, followed by his published books, ‘The Tower’, and the New York Times best seller, ‘The Push’, which he co-wrote with Tommy Caldwell.But I didn’t truly get to know Kelly until we chatted, and like a lot of alpinists, Kelly has a storied past, riddled with high highs, low lows, anchored by a fascination with exploration and adventure.  So here’s our conversation.  I hope you enjoy it.Links:Kelly CordesThe Tower (Book)The Push (Book)The Firn LinePatreonEvan Phillips MusicSponsors:Alaska Rock GymThe Hoarding Marmot

In this episode of The Firn Line, I check in with author and climber, Chris Kalman.  I first met Chris after reading his excellent book, As Above So Below and since then we’ve stayed in touch, connected through climbing and creativity. So I was excited when Chris announced a Kickstarter to help finish up his new novella, Dammed if you don’t.  Dammed If You Don't tells the story of a deeply-conflicted photographer who tries to save Lahuenco_—_a remote valley in Patagonian Chile—by showing the world how beautiful it is. But in showing the world how beautiful it is, he inadvertently puts Lahuenco in peril—including a rare and mysterious salamander whose sudden appearance there forces the scientific community to rethink its understanding of evolutionary biology, and possibly human history itself.  Chris and I recently caught up to talk about the his creative process, some philosophical discussions about the role of conservation in the outdoor community, as well as some fun talk - just about climbing.  So I hope y

The Snow CoffinEvan tells the story of a 1996 winter attempt, harrowing bivouac, and narrow escape from a remote Alaskan mountain.The Ghost Of AconcaguaMountain endurance athlete Sunny Stroeer tells her tale of completing the first female solo speed-circumnavigation and  ascent of Aconcagua, only to have a run-in with the fabled "ghost of Aconcagua" on her way out.Visitors In The NightMontana climber Justin Willis tells the gripping tale of unexplained sounds in the night during a weekend climbing trip to Comet Mountain.recording, editing and sound design by  Pod Peak LLCLinksThe Firn LinePatreonT-ShirtsEvan Phillips MusicSponsorsThe Hoarding MarmotAlaska Rock Gym

A young Alaskan alpinist, August Franzen, shares his story of climbing through life-changing love, and heart-wrenching grief.  Links:The Devil's Thumb (AAJ)Mt. Burkett (Alpinist )The Firn Line (Website)PatreonSponsors:Alaska Rock GymThe Hoarding MarmotDeclination Roasting

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know climber, skier, high-school teacher and coach, Eddie Taylor.Eddie grew up in different parts of the country.  As a youth, he spent time in New Mexico, where he first learned how to ski.  It was these formative experiences, alongside trips to National Parks, that instilled a deep reverence and love for the outdoors.During his high school years, Eddie moved out to Minnesota with his mom and sister, where he excelled in sports - playing basketball, soccer and track and field.  But he also had an aptitude for academics, and by the time he graduated, he decided to move out west to Boulder, Colorado, to attend Colorado State University.Eddie focused on his education, majoring in both Mathematics and Chemistry.  But the allure of athletics pulled at him, and with the encouragement of some friends, he walked on to the track and field team.  It didn’t take long for Eddie to impress the coaches with his all-around abilities, and before long, he’d earned a scholarsh

Today’s episode is a story about adventure.  It’s a story about getting scared.   It’s a story of friendship and love.  It’s a story about self-discovery and learning from your mistakes.  But the learning in this story doesn’t take place in a formal classroom, or an online forum.  Rather, It takes place in the mountains - in a small sub-range of striking peaks and glaciers, just outside of Anchorage, Alaska. It was in these peaks, known as the Western Chugach, where Brendon Lee’s life changed - in more ways than one.  And like a lot of folks who end up in the north, Brendan’s journey to Alaska started very far away - on an Air Force base, in Texas...LinksThe Firn LIneAK MountainEvan Phillips MusicSponsorsAlaska Rock GymThe Hoarding MarmotDeclination Roasting

I first met Tom Sardy in the summer of 1998.  My recollection is that I was camped under the granite towers of Archangel Valley in Hatcher Pass, when my friend Zach arrived, with Tom in tow, for a day of rock climbing.Zach and I had met just a few months prior, when we’d spent three weeks guiding clients up the west buttress of Denali.  We’d become instant friends on the trip, and I was glad to be climbing out in the real world with Zach, and his friend Tom.It must have been July, as the days were long, and the sun was powerful.  I have memories of hiking up a mossy, Tolkien-esque valley, to a prominent rock band that was split by 2 striking cracks where we climbed all afternoon.  What I remember about that day is that we laughed a lot.  And even though Tom seemed a bit shy and introverted, it was clear he was comfortable with Zach - and me as well.  Like a lot of days back then, it was a memorable moment in the mountains - being young and healthy, and just simply climbing for the pure joy of it - with friend

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know northwest based artist and mountain guide - Craig Muderlak.  I first got to know Craig through his amazing illustrations in Chris Kalman’s excellent book, As Above, So Below.  His work is emotional and moody - but also uplifting and joyful at the same time.  If you’ve spent time in the mountains - or live for pure moments in nature with friends or family - his work will certainly speak to you.When Covid 19 hit back in the spring, and lockdowns started going into effect - it hit us all.  I mean, it’s still hitting us all.  I know for myself, I went through a period of immense creativity - making music and producing multiple podcast episodes.  I felt like I needed to contribute something to the community.  But part of this push to create was inspired by seeing what others were doing - and Craig was one of the people who I drew inspiration from.  His series of pieces called ‘How To Be Alone’ are odes to memories in the mountains.  From mount Robson, To Half

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary North American alpinist, Steve Swenson.  Over the course of a climbing career that has spanned a remarkable 50 years, Steve has left a lasting imprint on the world stage of alpinism, from his roots in the Pacific Northwest, all the way to the 7 and 8,000 meter giants of the Himalaya, and the Pakistani Karakoram.His early climbs in the Canadian Rockies, which included an astounding list of classic north faces in the 1970’s, set the stage for other first ascents in Alaska and beyond.But it was Steve’s love for the greater ranges, specifically the Karakoram, that became the biggest alpine pull in his life.  Starting with a number of attempts in the early 80’s on Gasherbrum IV, Steve continually refined his style, and partnerships, to make ascents of giants like K2, Everest, and most-recently, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the world - Link Sar.I recently got a chance to speak with Steve about his enduring alpine career.  We talked about

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned climber and author, Margo Talbot.Growing up on the east coast of Canada in New Brunswick, Margo was raised in what she describes as a chaotic family environment.  It was this environment, often devoid of love and compassion, that led Margo to start dreaming of a new life. But as a teenager, a new life meant hanging out away from home, oftentimes on the streets, and eventually using drugs and alcohol.By the time Margo had become a young adult, she was fully-immersed in a toxic world mixed with chronic depression and drug addiction.  She even ended up in jail. For a lot of people, this would have been a hopeless situation.But when Margo was 28 years old, in the midst of a highly-abusive and toxic relationship, she discovered climbing - and for her, this was the catalyst that would change her life forever.  Climbing gave Margo a release, and power, that she’d never before experienced - and within a few years, she was able to harness this new f