The Firn Line

If you’re a climber, who consumes climbing related media like writing, video and podcasts - well, chances are, you’ve heard of Kathy Karlo. • Kathy is the creative force behind “for the love of climbing”, an entertaining and insightful blog that combines honest, to the point writing about life on and off the walls, mixed with a good dose of self-deprecating humor. • I had heard of Kathy’s renowned blog probably sometime in 2017. Although I perused thru some of her stories and photos, I have to admit, I never really took the time to sit down and actually delve into her work. But when I heard she was starting a new podcast, I eagerly awaited her first episode. Let’s just say, I was not let down. • For me, listening to Kathy’s podcast for the first time was an emotional gut punch that had me laughing one minute, crying the next and at the end of it all - feeling astonished at the level of creativity and production quality. A true lesson in the power of audio. • That’s why I was stoked to connect with Kathy

Like many young alpinists, my early experiences in and out of the mountains were defined by a succession of monumental highs tempered with desperate lows.  Maybe that’s why Jonathan Waterman’s book, In The Shadow Of Denali - made such an indelible mark on me. The collection of short stories, which is a a mountaineering classic, followed Waterman’s years as an alpinist and mountaineering ranger on Denali in the 1970’s and 80’.  As a neophyte Alaskan climber, just out of high school - it affected me deeply. • Although I was fascinated with the climbing stories Waterman penned, I was equally entranced by the characters he described.  Tales of legendary figures like Mugs Stump and Ray Genet kept me turning the pages at a frantic pace. But it was the stories of the people living their lives in the shadow of the mountain, that hit me the hardest.  The descriptions of the hard drinking Herb Atwater, and the ill-fated journey of Gretta Berglund - painted a brutally honest picture of a darker side of Alaska. • Needles

The Canadian Rockies are home to some of the most iconic alpine peaks in North America. Mountains like Alberta, Columbia, Edith Cavell and North Twin (to name a few) are synonymous with classic rockies alpine climbing: variable rock quality ranging from total choss, to flint hard quartzite - hanging glaciers and double cornices, veins of pristine alpine and water ice - and the classic sandbag grade of 5.9 A2. • But if there’s one mountain that stands out from the rest (Literally) - it’s Mount Robson. Topping out at nearly 13,000’ in height, and with huge relief on all sides, Robson is truly a sight to behold. It’s massive south face rises nearly 10,000’ from the Yellowhead Hwy - luring tourists, hikers and climbers for a closer look. • But it’s the northern side of Robson that speaks the language of the true alpinist. In 1913, mountain guide Conrad Kain led a group of climbers to the summit after navigating the crevasse-laden Robson Glacier, and chopping steps up the northeast face and on the the summit.

Growing up in the coastal town of Cordova, Alaska - Pryce Brown was exposed to the vast beauty of Alaska from a young age. Whether it was fishing, aviation, or later in his teens, backcountry skiing - Pryce was always drawn to the more adventurous side of life. • But it wasn’t until his college years, in the midst of a tedious engineering degree at the the University of Alaska Fairbanks, that Pryce found Speed flying - an extreme winter sport that involves a combination of paragliding and skiing - that would forever alter the course of his life. • Inspired by this new form of creative expression in the mountains, Pryce, along with a core group of friends, would begin tapping new opportunities in Alaska - and with that, open new realms of what was possible. • I recently sat down with Pryce to talk about his early experiences speed flying in Thompson Pass, a life changing experience base jumping off a bridge in Idaho, as well as his recent bar-setting wingsuit jumps in the mountains of Alaska. ••••••••••••••••

On today's episode of The Firn Line, we'll get to know UK-based alpinist, Malcolm Bass.  Over the course of a 30 year alpine career, Malcolm has pushed the limits of exploration of the mind, and the mountains. • From early caving expeditions in his university years, across unclimbed walls of rock and ice in the fabled Alaska Range, to a string of monumental ascents in the Himalaya, Malcolm epitomizes the character and spirit of a true alpinist. • I recently got a chance to talk with Malcolm about his life in the mountains, the friendships he's forged along the way, as well as the other components in his life he finds meaningful. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Music: www.evanphillips.net •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Links: www.evanphillips.net www.thefirnline.com www.patreon.com/thefirnline •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Sponsors: www.alaskarockgym.com www.moosestooth.net www.hoardingmarmot.com www.behindthesuntherapeutics.com

If you’ve ever spent time flying over, or travelling thru the pacific northwest, you’ve most-likely been taken by the monolithic glacier-capped volcanoes that dot the horizon line. Giants like Mount Rainier, Hood and Adams hold court over some of the most beautiful terrain in north america - and in doing so - form an inspiring backdrop for hikers, climbers and even artists - like Nikki Frumkin. • From an early age, Nikki always had an outdoorsy and creative side, blending a love for animals and playing in the woods, with a deep rooted passion for drawing, sketching and painting. But it wasn’t until Nikki finished college and headed out west, that her love for art and creativity, would merge with her passion for mountains and the wilderness. • Since that time, Nikki has immersed herself in her craft - forging a lifestyle that revolves around creating art in beautiful places - most notably - the North Cascades of the pacific northwest. • I recently got a chance to sit down with Nikki, to talk about her passio

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary backcountry skier, Noah Howell. • In an epic career spanning over 20 years, Howell has established himself as one of North America’s most prolific and enduring backcountry masters. From early life-changing experiences in the Alps, thru a decade-long run of creativity at the helm of the infamous Powderwhore Productions, to a span of big mountain descents in Alaska, culminating in a recent ski decent of Mount Hunter’s west ridge and Ramen Couloir, Howell continues to push the limits of what’s possible in the mountains. • I recently got a chance to sit down with Howell, for an engaging conversation about his life in and out of the mountains. We started our conversation by talking about his roots in Utah, and how that led to his first experiences skiing in the Wasatch, and eventually to the bigger mountains of Alaska. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Music: https://www.timeaston.com https://www.evanphillips.net ••••••••••••••••••

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know world-renowned and visionary alpinist, David Lama. • The son of Nepalese and Austrian parents, David was was born with an affinity for movement over natural terrain, and a deep reverence for the high places. As a youngster, Lama excelled at indoor and sport climbing, dominating the competition circuit, and honing his rock climbing skills to the highest standards. But eventually, a natural progression to the mountains occurred - which has culminated in a multitude of ground-breaking ascents in Patagonia, The Himalaya and beyond. • I recently got a chance to sit down with David in Anchorage, Alaska - to have a candid conversation about his life as a climber, and the vision he follows as an alpinist. We talked about everything, from his early days as a competition climber, to a life-changing experience on the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, to his meaningful relationship with fellow climber and friend Conrad Anker, to the limitless ideas and projects that

On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll get to know legendary Alaskan outdoorswoman, and wilderness educator, Nancy Pfeiffer. I first heard nancy’s name probably when I was around 17 years old. At the time, I was what you might call a neophyte alpinist, and Nancy was a well-known skier, mountaineer and wilderness instructor in the community, which automatically made her a hero of sorts in my mind. Although we rarely crossed paths in the ensuing years, she was always on my radar, and someone I admired and respected for her skills and expertise in the mountains. • That’s why I was intrigued this last year when I saw that Nancy had written a book. And it wasn’t any ordinary book. Released in May of 2018, Riding Into The Heart of Patagonia chronicles nearly 20 years of Nancy’s travels through the different regions of Patagonia - on horseback. • Although the stories are full of adventure, close calls, and sometimes clever bursts of self-deprecating humor, the core of the story goes deeper than that: to the

Every mountaineer has a favorite mountain range, a place that for whatever reason centers them, gives them a piece of mind, creates a sense of belonging.  For some, it might be a well-known place like the Sierras: an area of impeccably clean granite towers, speckled with pristine, aqua-colored alpine lakes and a constant supply of near perfect weather.  For others, it might be the Swiss Alps, a range steeped in mountain history and culture, with a list of bold and ultra-classic lines too innumerable to count. And for others, like Alaskan climber and mountain adventurer Eric Parsons, it’s the more obscure areas, like the western ramparts of Alaska’s Chugach Mountains, that define their lives. ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Music by https://evanphillips.bandcamp.com/ ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Links: https://ericparsons.exposure.co/ http://www.revelatedesigns.com/ http://www.littleatriathlon.com http://www.thefirnline.com http://www.patreon.com/thefirnline http://www.evanphillips.net ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• S

Growing up in the west African country of Nigeria, Adam was drawn to movement and athletics from a young age, whether it was team sports like soccer, or more solo endeavors like surfing. But it wasn’t until he moved to Canada as a teen, that he began to dabble in the sport that would ultimately shape the course of his life: running. • In his twenties, Adam narrowed his focus to multi-sport races like triathlons, and he even earned the title of Canadian Duathlon National Champion in 2004. But a few years later, the repetitive nature of the training started to lose its appeal, and Adam began a shift to the more creative form of mountain running. • Over the course of the next decade, Adam became a major force in the mountain and endurance running world, often-times placing in the top three in a variety of punishing and knee-jarring races around the world. But in August of 2016, all of that came crashing down, when he took a bad fall in the Selkirks in British Columbia, breaking his pelvis, as well as multiple

Alaska is a vast and wild place; a constant fluctuation of movement and changing landscapes.  Rugged mountains are carved by massive, chaotic glaciers - and lush, brown-green valleys are cut by powerful silt-laden rivers. During the spring and short summer seasons, the landscapes come alive; the lowlands teeming with wildlife and colorful and fragrant boreal forests.  Then in the winter, a darkness falls, blanketing the ground with snow and ice, and I quiet that you can sometimes feel, more than hear. • Some people shy away from these natural environments, choosing a more urban existence full of creature comforts and predictability.  While other folks, people like artist, skier and wilderness guide Klara Maisch, embrace it, choosing to let the wildness of Alaska shape every aspect of who they are, and how they live. • To immerse yourself into Klara’s artwork is to transport yourself into the heart and soul of Alaska’s wilderness.  Flowing lines are meandering rivers.  Circles and shapes are glacial erratics. 

Over the course of an distinguished 30+ year career, Conrad Anker’s adventures have taken him from the bigwalls of Yosemite, to the icy flanks of The Alaska Range, The Himalaya and Antarctica. Although Anker is probably best-known for discovering Mallory's remains on the north side of Everest in 1999 (or his stunning climb up Meru), it’s his earlier adventures in Alaska that I’ve always been fascinated with. • That’s why I was excited to sit down with Conrad this past February, to talk about his formative experiences in the mountains, the friends and partners that meant the most to him, as well as his efforts in environmental activism. Having flown to Alaska to teach some workshops at the Valdez Ice Festival, Conrad was able to squeeze in an early morning chat me at his hotel in Anchorage, before catching a flight back to Bozeman. Hope you enjoy! •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Links: http://conradanker.com/ http://www.alexlowe.org/the-khumbu-climbing-center/ http://www.thefirnline.com/ ht

Sometime in the days after March 5, 2018 Ryan and his partner, the brilliant Marc Andre Leclerc, lost their lives after completing the stunning first ascent of the north face of the Main Tower in The Mendenhall’s, just outside of Juneau, Alaska. • The route, which was a dream line of Ryan’s, epitomized what he looked for in alpinism: Elements of the unknown, physical and mental challenges, as well as an aesthetic, direct and pure line. One can only imagine what it must have felt like for Ryan to be on that summit after what had surely been one of his best experiences in the mountains. • Although I had never met Ryan in person, we’d corresponded in the months before his passing, and had planned on sitting down for an interview this April. So in a way of honoring Ryan, I decided to talk with some of his best friends and partners, to hear about their memories, experiences, and the ups and downs they shared in and out of the mountains. ••••••••••••••••••••••••• Links: https://www.gofundme.com/ryanandmilo https:

On this special bonus episode of The Firn Line, I sit down with Alaska-based mountain and backcountry ski guide Joe Stock. I first met Joe on the Kahiltna Glacier back in 2002, and was immediately taken with his enthusiasm and infectious positive attitude. That's why it was nice to sit down and catch up a few months ago. Our conversation covered topics including Joe's early experiences guiding, his backcountry ski guidebook "The Alaska Factor", as well as his thoughts on the importance of creativity in life. Enjoy! •••••••••••• Sponsors: http://www.alaskarockgym.com/ http://www.moosestooth.net/ https://www.hoardingmarmot.com/ •••••••••••• Links: https://www.thefirnline.com https://www.patreon.com/thefirnline https://www.evanphillips.net https://www.stockalpine.com/

In March 1999 I found myself wedged in a sandy chimney, fully-gripped and trembling, five hundred feet off the deck. Me and my partner Scott were attempting to climb The Thunderbird Wall, a grade VI backcountry behemoth in Zion National Park’s Kolab Canyon.  The face, which is among the highest sandstone walls in the world, had only been climbed twice since Jeff Lowe and Cactus Bryan made the first attempt in 1971. Scott had been to Zion once before.  I had never stood in a pair of aiders.  In hindsight, I can only blame the ignorance of youth for leading me to believe I had any business being on The Thunderbird Wall. Links: www.patreon.com/thefirnline www.thefirnline.com www.evanphillips.net/ www.alaskarockgym.com/ www.hoardingmarmot.com/

Growing up in the Yupik village of St. Marys, Danielle Varney was raised on a steady diet of winter camping, and long summer days spent working on the family’s Yukon River fish camp. These core experiences instilled a work ethic that first carried over into college athletics, and ultimately, mountaineering. Since that time, Danielle has climbed and explored big Alaskan mountains including Denali, Mt. Drum, as well as a harrowing life-and-death experience on the icy crown of The Chugach , Mount Marcus Baker. • I recently sat down with Danielle to talk about her deep Alaskan roots, as well as the important lessons she’s learned from Alaska’s mountains. Links: https://www.patreon.com/thefirnline https://www.thefirnline.com http://evanphillips.net/ http://www.alaskarockgym.com/ https://hoardingmarmot.com/

On December 2, 2017, I had the great privilege to sit down in front of a live audience at the Alaska Rock Gym, and talk with renowned Alaskan alpinist and explorer, Roman Dial. We had a candid and highly-entertaining conversation that spanned topics including his early years in Fairbanks, his ambitious climbs in The Hayes Range in the 80’s, as well as his forays into hell-biking, tree climbing, and packrafting in the 90’s and beyond. • In some ways, Roman is a larger than life character, with a list of jaw-dropping outdoor achievements to his credit. But as you’ll soon hear, it’s the characters, friends and partners that have helped shape Roman’s life, and ultimately meant the most to him. https://www.patreon.com/thefirnline https://www.thefirnline.com https://www.evanphillips.net http://packrafting.blogspot.com/ https://www.alaskarockgym.com https://www.shwakmagazine.com

On episode 20, I look back on 2017 and season one of The Firn Line, and give thanks to all the folks who have been with me along the way. Also, we hear a sneak peek of the first ever Firn Line "Live" with Roman Dial, which happened earlier this month at the Alaska Rock Gym. Finally, I give my rundown on why podcasting and climbing are essentially the same thing. https://www.patreon.com/thefirnline https://www.thefirnline.com https://www.evanphillips.net https://www.alaskarockgym.com

Many years ago, I saw Jack Tackle give a slideshow in Anchorage. I was in my early to mid-twenties at the time, and mountain climbing was the only thing that mattered. That evening, I listened intently as Jack described icefaces, corniced ridges, and run-out pitches that had long captured my imagination. But I was also impressed by the life-wisdom Jack imparted. His laid back style, coupled with a philosophy about the importance of vision, commitment and trust, resonated in a way that made sense to me. I remember walking away that night feeling inspired, and ready to apply some of Jack’s hard-earned wisdom into my own climbs. But it’s funny how life works. Shortly after the slideshow, I sustained an injury climbing, that effectively ended my career, and irrevocably changed my life forever. Although I went on to make a new path in art and music, I can say without a doubt, that my life was never the same without climbing. • Jack too, experienced life-altering injuries that could have ended his climbing car